Oh boy, just when I thought I was done… In all fairness, while the base is typically the least exciting part of the model for many hobbyists (although a quick trip to coolminiornot.com will yield a surprising number of minis where the base overshadows the actual mini in the best way possible…), it can honestly make or break a whole mini. Shitty composition can hamper eye movement around the mini, poor color choice can draw your attention away from a wonderfully painted mini and throw off its color scheme. An even more common hobby transgression though, is that many of us often just don’t take the same amount of care in painting the base as we do the miniature itself. So, I had to remind myself of all of this as a finished this, the last part of the model.
Since the base was prepackaged, I didn’t have to worry about composition of the base (which is a good thing). So it was really just about color choice. For most of the base, this meant painting rubble in a manner that wouldn’t detract from the Angron himself. Neutral tones, here we go.
After priming the base with Ironhull Grey, I then began to drybrush on layers of Ironhull Grey and Menoth White Highlight, adding more Menoth White Highlight with each layer. All told, I had four layers up from the base layer of Ironhull Grey.
When this was done, I hit the whole base with a wash of P3’s Armor Wash.
The piece of torn metal was painted in exactly the same way as Angron’s armor, so take a look at the last article for more on that.
The marine was a bit more problematic. I wasn’t feeling quite up to painting white yet, and so making the poor guy a loyalist World Eater just wouldn’t happen. But I still needed a color choice that wouldn’t throw off Angron, and would still fit in with the rest of the army. Fortunately, World Eaters have a lot of blue. Blue was also a cooler color that would fit in well with the largely grey base. Lastly, while I don’t hate Ultramarines, they’re fun to dismember. So it was settled…
Using multiple thin coats, I based the marine in 1:1 mixture of GW’s Kantor Blue and Teclis Blue. From there I blocked out the shades (again using the zenithal method) in Kantor Blue and blended the two tones using OB blending. From there, I had two successive layers of highlights. The first highlight was a block of 1:1 Teclis Blue and P3’s Underbelly blue, OB blended with Teclis Blue. The last highlight block, also OB blended, was a block of 2:1 Teclis Blue and Underbelly Blue. I then added edge highlight of pure Underbelly blue. From there, I lined the blue armor with GW’s Drakhenhoff Nightshade by washing the whole surface, and then wiped away any ink that hadn’t receded into the cracks with a Q-tip.
The Gold trim was painted in exactly the same manner as Angron’s armor, and the silver sub armor was painted with a base of P3’s Quicksilver and then washed with P3s Armor wash.
I feel like this collection of techniques deserves its own section. It’s become all the rage in to make your miniatures look like they’ve been through a shit storm (in the case of Death Guard, this may be taken literally…), and I’ve been a little slow to catch up to this trend. Honestly, I think in some cases it’s an awesome thing to add to a mini, but it’s been over used in a lot of cases, which is why I was so hesitant to use it in the first place. That said, a loyalist who ran into Angron is probably going to look pretty awful, so I think now’s a good time to get caught up with the times.
An important note is that you should finish all of what would be considered “normal” painting before you begin to weather your miniature. That means that I made sure to apply the decals to the marine’s shoulder pads before starting any of this.
To achieve the scratched and dented appearance on the armor’s surface, I simply took a bit of the foam they pack metal miniatures with, and then used it to stipple quicksilver onto the surface of the mini, concentrating on exposed edges and other places likely to encounter heavy wearing. Stippling is simply using the foam to dab the paint onto the surface. I tried to be sparing with the amount of paint I had loaded onto the foam, almost as if I were preparing to drybrush with the foam. And really, that’s it.
I was a little leery of using these, to be honest, as I’ve seen people go nuts with them with bad results. But I can now say, after having used them all of once, they can be pretty cool. I my case, I simply brushed on a layer of Vallejo Dark Red Ocre followed by a layer of Vallejo Brown Iron Oxide on the rubble and on the back and sides of the marine. I then quickly coated the base in a matte varnish to keep the pigments on. This last part is quite important, since you’re basically working with crushed pastel pigments, which are notorious for getting on everything except your art… Finally, I added some of GW’s Blood for the Blood God to the bloody chest wound and I was finally done. Check it out below!